戏说黄埔蛋
南海神庙又称波罗庙，坐落在广州的黄埔。波罗庙每年农历二月有个隆重的节日，叫做波罗诞，是民间传统祈福的庙会。诞期，南海神庙组织了一批民俗专家对波罗庙的民俗文化的传承、发展做了个研讨座谈。会后，在黄埔南岗的河边吃饭。席间谈到了黄埔的民俗、掌故、特产。其中，黄埔蛋特别有意思。被称为黄埔一宝的民俗专家黄应丰告诉我们：黄埔蛋是用文火做成，均匀，平摊，够薄，可对面看见人，有如黄布，故人称黄布蛋，后又因与出品的地方黄埔有关，后大家称为黄埔蛋。另一个说法是此蛋出品的酒楼在黄埔长洲，黄埔军校的师生上至蒋介石、下至同学去吃饭时都喜欢点此菜，故得此名。讲完这段掌故之后，黄应丰看着我们那双期盼吃黄埔蛋的眼神，叹了一句：黄埔蛋已经失传了，不是话它难做，难就难在从原料上就已经没有了这种鸡蛋，正所谓巧妇难为无米之炊。原来做黄埔蛋的鸡蛋取自水上人家在船上所养的鸡，喂之以小鱼小虾，偶尔还有小公鸡亲热一下，看日落日出，听潮起潮落，生活欢愉正常，所得的蛋自然与现时饲料鸡生的很不一样。瞧现在的母鸡，只能是生蛋的机器，恒温照明，吃快速（生长）饲料，别说亲热，就是连同性恋的机会都没有，每天就是要完成下蛋的任务，你说，那生下来的还叫鸡蛋吗？只能是经过鸡内循环所形成的一团人们称之为蛋品的东东。所以，要品到好东西，还是要从源头根本上抓起，饮食如此，民俗文化的建设也是如此。
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